


65

"I come for one of Los Angeles’s most dependable chicken Parmesans, but going only for the Italian American food misses the point. In front of the butter yellow bungalow on Santa Monica Boulevard, steps away from the still-kicking Troubador, light from the neon-green signage splashes across the sidewalk; inside, a tuxedoed gentleman flips pages in an encyclopedia-thick and weathered reservations book — I hope he has my name, because the place, especially on weekends, always seems packed with regulars, travelers, and first-time locals looking for a slice of classic Los Angeles. I get it here with attentive, irreverent service (a pepper grinder whirs from table to table as salads and pastas land), strong martinis, and checkered red tablecloths that haven’t seemed to fade. The restaurant’s founder, restaurateur and former actor and athlete Dan Tana, died on August 16 at age 90, his legend already fortified within the walls of his namesake place." - Eater Staff