"Lioni’s, hidden away in a residential corner of Bensonhurst, is one of Brooklyn’s most venerable hero shops, with a menu of over 150 configurations, many named after Italian-Americans. The Mario Lanza illustrates how a hero doesn’t have to be complicated to be great. This one depends on the interplay of salty mortadella and unsalty mozzarella — the latter made on the premises and extra creamy." - Robert Sietsema