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"Tucked into West Town, this Chinese spot is centered on dumplings and noodles—dishes rooted in memory, ritual, and family—founded in 2019 by brothers Daniel and Eric Wat as a tribute to their childhoods and the dumpling-making they learned from their grandmother, who immigrated from just outside Shanghai. Nearly seven years in, it’s consistently packed; the restaurant doesn’t take reservations, and on weekends and in the evenings it’s common to see people patiently waiting an hour—sometimes longer—outside for deeply comforting, handcrafted dishes. Order the beef and green onion dumplings ($16): ten plump specimens arrive in a bowl brimming with broth made with dried shrimp, dark soy sauce, sesame, chile oil, and zha cai, so the dumplings steep and each scoop is better than the last. The dan dan noodles ($16) are thin and springy, twirling effortlessly around my chopsticks; they sit atop chile oil, peanuts, and brown peppercorns, with vegetables layered on top (I ordered mine without the typical pork), creating a bowl that’s layered, aromatic, and impossible to stop eating—stirring it all together feels almost artistic, like swirling paint, and the payoff is entirely worth disturbing the plating. The cong you bing ($8), a green onion and sesame bread, pairs well with the soupy dumplings, and it comes out pretty hot, so I let it cool before taking a bite. Best for solo dining after a long day, or impressing friends or visitors with a spot that proves your taste is elite; insider tip: they don’t take reservations, so arriving between noon and 2 p.m.—especially on weekends—is key." - Tajah Ware