Erik Bruner-Yang Takes on the Traditional Japanese Cafe, Including an Iconic Fried Rice Omelet - Eater DC
"A pale yellow sheath of eggs, whipped with vegetable stock and heated in a cold pan in the style of a Japanese omelet, covers a block of fried rice like a weightless blanket. A roasted tomato sauce plays a role that ketchup typically fills, saucing slick kernels that make up most of the volume of the brick-sized package. A thick pool of dark brown veal demi-glace adds a third layer of richness for a spoon to carve before it hits the plate. This is the omurice at Cafe Spoken, and it explains the strategy behind serving hotel food in the COVID-19 era for one of D.C.’s most-trusted restaurant minds." - Gabe Hiatt
