

79

"Being from the South, I’m very particular about tomatoes, so I was skeptical about ordering a tomato salad at the end of September here, but the bartender from New Orleans assured me that the dish was worth trying. The appetizer, part of the bistro’s prix fixe lunch, was a work of art: a thick slice of yellow heirloom tomato sat atop a bouncy bearnaise sauce; petite tomatoes, slicked with an olive oil dressing, nestled into the crevices of the base tomato, along with crunchy, craggly croutons and a mess of herbs, from basil to chervil to celery leaves. Every element was in balance — the sweetness from the vegetables, the zip from the acid in the sauce, and the brightness from the greens — and the tomatoes were indeed at their prime." - Nadia Chaudhury