
42

"When I saw “testa” — Italian for “head” — on the menu at the warm and glowy Foul Witch in Alphabet City, my first question was: “Whose testa is it?” After learning that the terrine was from a pig’s head, I couldn’t resist. While the only head cheese I’ve ever had before was served as a cold slice speckled with pink-hued meat and had a gelatinous texture (not complaining), Foul Witch’s version ($14) was served quite warm, making the gooey, unctuous meat extremely spreadable — the texture more like that of a comforting, melt-in-your-mouth meat stew. It went extremely well spread over the house-made sesame focaccia with cultured butter ($6), another can’t-miss dish." - Bettina Makalintal