Inside Abrah, The New Ukrainian Cafe from Soloway Coffee’s Owners | Eater Chicago

"An all-day bakery and bistro opening at 2269 N. Lincoln Avenue, this two-part space pairs a to-go bake counter with an intimate 24-seat dining room dominated by an open kitchen, serving breakfast, brunch, and dinner. The bakery side offers freshly baked breads and pastries — including crème brûlée danish, seasonal berry laminated pastry, classic plain croissants, savory kimchi danish, and a puff pastry topped with roasted vegetables, bacon, and mashed sweet potato — while the dining menu draws on French, Scandinavian, and Ukrainian influences with American touches. Signature dishes include a Kyiv-style chicken cutlet stuffed with dill butter on parsnip purée with pickled onions, grilled skirt steak with charred romaine and garlicky baby potatoes in a smoked paprika butter and peppercorn sauce, and gombovci: Western Ukrainian farmer’s-cheese dumplings filled with ripe cherries, coated in breadcrumbs and served with rich sour cream, seasonal fruit, and cherry jam. The streamlined coffee program features a 100% arabica custom blend developed with the owners’ Ternopil roastery team, noted for hints of peach yogurt, blueberry, and linden honey; tea is sourced from Chicago’s Spirit Tea. The team emphasizes training and a personal touch (they hosted a four-day master class led by French pastry chef Romain Dufour), and the concise beverage program includes natural wines and pét-nats, aperitif-style brunch cocktails, and evening espresso martinis and whiskey sours. Interior details such as hand-drawn food images on white tiles, lime-wash paint with warm undertones, light blue-and-white patterned tiles above the pass, and a planned mid-summer patio create a calming, vintage-tinged atmosphere." - Lisa Shames