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"A cute little bistro a few steps below sidewalk level, this new Spanish spot from the Ernesto’s team was absolutely bustling on a Thursday evening. I loved being tucked into a convivial, luxe-yet-comfy back dining room while chef Ryan Bartlow, in his chef hat, wove through the Madrid-styled tavern checking on guests and dishes. The ajo blanco ($25) was as delightful as described—refreshing with spheres of melon—but the arroz del dia ($55) stole the show: a square pan filled with squab slices, rice cooked in squab, and mushrooms that looked like a work of art and tasted umami-packed with comforting textures; even the neighboring table asked what we’d ordered." - Nadia Chaudhury