"When Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue burned down a few years ago, my feeling was that it was already slipping in the quality of its smoked meat. But now it’s back with a bang. The substantial, black-pepper-rubbed pork ribs are better than before, the footlong jalapeno sausage is spicy and grainy enough for anyone’s taste, and the brisket is tasty — even though it’s sliced with the grain contrary to the usual practice. The roadhouse ambiance feels just right." - Robert Sietsema