"Modest and cosy, this 55-year old Kilburn venue is one of the oldest surviving South Indian restaurants in London. It’s worth visiting for the sambar — particularly for lunch — layered with so many spices that the humble lentil broth is revitalised with an impressive depth of flavour. There’s a mild-mannered dish of pumpkin with black eyed beans cooked in a coconut and shallot paste; and green bananas blanketed under thick yoghurt sauce. Also on the menu are subtly tangy cuttlefish curry; and Cochin chicken enlivened with the citrusy blast of fresh lime leaves. The restaurant has seen better days, and its status as a celebrity haunt has long diminished, but that sambar will always be a draw." - Sejal Sukhadwala
