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"The idea of a mail delivery service as a cure-all for homesickness it not a new one — after all, many of London’s pie and mash shops do delivery for those who have taken the long and irreversible journey from east London to Essex. And some London Nigerians have wondered, if rich residents of Lagos can order in pizza from London then why not suya going the other way? Kehinde Tayo-Quaye’s Mai Suya aims to fill this gap in the market, offering postal orders of suya, peppered gizzards, and asun from as well as pick-ups for those who can make the trip to the HQ. While something will always be lost in the reheating, the beef suya holds up well and the kidney suya offers something the competition doesn’t, a kidney so devilled it’s in the ninth circle of hell, where the fire of yaji plays off against the offal funk. To accentuate the nostalgia factor, all suya comes wrapped in newspaper with paper-wrapped pellets of yaji for those who want even more heat. Except, because this is London after all, the paper is the Evening Standard." - Jonathan Nunn
