"In a New York Times Style Magazine series that 'revisits New York institutions that have defined cool for decades,' author Reggie Nadelson uses his latest installment to sing the praises of Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken in Harlem, which is also an Eater 38 member. 'This is the Platonic ideal of fried chicken,' he writes, 'the essence of a bird, moist, tender, mouthwatering in its crispy delicately seasoned crust, every batch seasoned three times, constantly turned, gently pan-fried in soybean oil, low in saturated fat.'" - Kayla Kumari Upadhyaya