Kelang

Inside the New Brooklyn Restaurant Mixing Malaysian, Caribbean, and Italian Flavors | Eater NY

"Propelled by the momentum of Hainan Chicken House, this Greenpoint follow-up opened in early December and channels Chris Low's Malaysian roots and Brooklyn upbringing into a Malaysian menu threaded with Caribbean and Italian American touches; as he puts it, "all those cuisines bleed into the menu," sometimes overtly and sometimes subtly. Dishes include a Caesar kerabu with sambal, crispy anchovies, kerisik, and chicories like Castelfranco or radicchio; a large-plate redang made with oxtail and a mix of Haitian djon djon rice and Malaysian nasi ulam; small plates of curry puffs and paratha with dal; noodles such as abacus seeds made with gnocchi-shaped taro; and the family's Hainanese chicken, with habaneros and scotch bonnets appearing elsewhere. Low notes that his family's hometown of Klang has its own food culture, from the liberal use of dark soy in bak kut teh to a char kway teow that differs from Penang's, and the restaurant's name is the "antiquated spelling" of the city. The space, designed with a filmmaker's eye, leans into Wong Kar-wai's In the Mood for Love and an "amalgam of memories," with a hand-tiled floor resembling a topographical map of Klang, gingko motifs, hand-painted mirrors, and family photos from the '50s and '60s. Open for dinner and weekend brunch, it is awaiting a liquor license; when it comes, expect cocktails and natural wines." - Nadia Chaudhury