

5
"I followed Salvatore La Rosa from his days delivering sandwiches to his new corner spot on Forest Avenue and found a well-designed, charming blend of weathered and new: a tiled floor, tin ceiling, and one textured wall remain, while a rich mahogany bar with four seats and a Faema espresso machine are his touches. On a recent afternoon the music — MJ Lenderman, not “Ave Maria” — played at a murmur. Caponata is served in a little silver ice-cream bowl with eggplant chunks that still hold a bit of chew. The sandwich menu is small but striking: thinly sliced mortadella with burrata, pistachio pesto, and a real burst of lemon zest; and a late-added sausage, sliced and barely browned, resting on golden rosemary-and-gremolata potatoes with scattered leeks cooked just shy of disintegration. A luxuriously funky Gorgonzola crema ties things together when used with a delicate hand. The spot is lunch-only for now, with dinner arriving soon." - Grub Street