

5
"Housed in the original Scarr’s storefront transformed into an eight-seat omakase counter, the new concept pairs Scarr Pimentel with restaurateur Ryan Chadwick and chef Kei Yoshino and retains the venue’s retro, suburban-’70s feel—from wood paneling and Tiffany lamps to two original booths—while swapping in Japanese movie posters, records and memorabilia. Service is a 17-course set menu priced at $165 with three nightly seatings (5:30, 7:30 and 9:30), centered on nigiri with a couple of hand rolls and beginning with soup and a starter such as Hokkaido uni and marinated ikura topped with a dab of Ossetra caviar and freshly grated wasabi served over a small piece of mochi (used in lieu of scallops). A $75 beverage pairing offers three sakes and a red wine selected by Yoshino, whose philosophy emphasizes that sushi should be about the fish, though he may include a special kobe-beef piece on the à la carte menu for guests seeking something extra. The counter is separated from the unchanged front of the shop by a curtain so the pizza ovens remain visible and will be used for future pop-ups, and hungry diners can still grab a slice across the street. Reservations are available on Resy." - Tammie Teclemariam