"Venice is a city in a time warp - no cars, no supermarkets, no modern flash. That’s part of its incredible charm. But many of its hotels are also stuck in a time warp - tired décor, medieval plumbing, poor insulation. One hotel which breaks this mould - and in some style - is Ca Pisani, a four-storey 'designer palazzo' (apparently Venice's first design hotel) just near the Grand Canal and the Guggenheim collection. Behind its 16th-century façade - with the classic ochre plaster and marble-framed windows - the Serandrei family have refitted it in dazzling and indulgent style. We’re talking sleek glass surfaces, bamboo-parquet floors, steel stairs, walnut bedframes, optic-fibre spotlights, Mies van der Rohe chairs, and a smattering of futuristic artworks. Most pieces are from the 1930’s and 40’s, others are specially commissioned for the hotel, including the gadget-laden bathrooms and the remotely operated, double-glazed windows. It may sound OTT but it’s very easy on the eye (and the body) after an exhausting day of sightseeing or shopping. The hotel also has a steam room, a ground floor restaurant which spills onto the lane in fine weather, and a pretty roof terrace for romantic private dinners. Overall this is a calm, contemporary haven in a swarming sea of history. Highs Great location next to the Accademia Gallery and vaporetto stop (3 mins from the Zattere quays, 15 mins from San Marco)Extremely well-appointed bedrooms: great air-conditioning and soundproofing, superb beds, robes and turndownsWe loved the luxurious bathrooms - bathtubs are a rare treat in Venice, so the huge Jacuzzi tub went down a stormThe on-site wine and cheese bar - with outdoor tables, too - is handy if you're too tired to dine outThe altana terrace has princely views of Venetian rooftops and domes Lows No canal views - though that can be a blessingWe found the button-operated lighting, air-con and curtains a little baffling at firstWhen we last stayed, we felt the service - though always efficient and polite - lacked warmth at times" - Michael Cullen