"The best seat in the house: The two-top in front of the mirror. It’s sometimes taken by an elderly couple holding hands, drinking wine, and sharing soufflé. What you’re seeing: Crouch End locals who have been friends since school. Gooey bowls of French onion soup. The head chef, flushed and cheery while explaining the specials to a double date. A dining room that’s the raison d'être for restaurants themselves." - jake missing, sinead cranna, rianne shlebak