With Crane Club, the Tao Group makes some responsible choices - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"Tao, the national clubstaurant chain, wants you to have a good time, sure, but it also wants your money. Even when you’re pleasantly reenacting 2005 with a $20 cosmo and some surprisingly decent sushi, the experience feels inescapably corporate. But what about sister establishment Crane Club? Is this Italian-ish spot from a chef with a fine dining background genuinely good? Or is it just better at hiding its intentions? Both, probably. We can’t say exactly what’s on this Chelsea restaurant’s mind, but we can tell you that the food is overachieving, the service is attentive, and the ballroom-sized space—with its floral arrangements and dramatically arched ceilings—is surprisingly elegant. photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff The place isn’t the least bit subtle (because Tao), but for a big night, that’s perfect. Clomp your way across some herringbone floors, settle into a curved velvet booth, and enjoy a selection of complimentary bread served on a tray that initially looks like wood, but is, in fact, a very large cracker. In terms of gimmicks, that’s a risky one. No easing in, just right off the bat: edible tray. And guess what? It tastes great. Similar to shortbread. Crane Club’s menu leans into stunts (lava cake! caviar!) that would seem pandering if they weren’t so successful. A steak aged in parm has just enough cheesy funk, and a vat of stuffed shells gets a tableside pour of earthy truffle jus that rounds out the heaviness of the oozing cheese. photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff Some gambits fail—a side of potatoes cooked in duck fat tastes like gloppy vinegar—and most dishes tend to beat you over the head with their performative richness. But for a place where patrons wear fur indoors? Honestly impressive. If a city with an abundance of incredible big-ticket options like Tatiana and Torrisi, Crane Club doesn’t quite establish itself as a must. But if you’re feeling a little gaudy and need a spot where you can soak in excess, Crane Club, not Tao, is the responsible choice. Food Rundown photo credit: Alex Staniloff Complimentary Bread As if they’re trying to atone for bringing Tao and its other siblings into the world, Crane Club gives you not one, but three types of table bread. There’s focaccia with vodka sauce, a semolina sourdough, and a savory babka-like bun. The first two are great, the third is fine. But seeing as how they were free, it would be rude of us to complain. Don't forget to bite that tray. (The top one, not the bottom.) photo credit: Alex Staniloff Sweet Potato The sweet potato is secretly one of the best things here. It’s dense, buttery, and incredibly soft, the perfect vessel for some whipped honey and mascarpone. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Spaghettoni A saffron-infused pasta with an ocean’s worth of seafood, including mussels, shrimp, lobster, and calamari so tender you barely have to chew. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Baked Shells If you’re splitting a pasta, go for the baked shells. Torched on top, they’re crammed with ricotta and mascarpone, to the extent that the cheese gushes out the sides. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Parmigiano Reggiano-Aged NY Strip Steak Sounds like a gimmick, but a month of parm aging has a nice effect, giving the seared and salty crust of this steak a faint cheesy scent. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Tahini Lava Cake Crane Club is very good at dessert. Their apple crumble with crunchy bits of cinnamon croissant is always a good choice, but don’t miss the lava cake topped with quenelle of tahini coconut gelato you break open like crème brûlée. They even have a gluten-free version." - Bryan Kim
