"For a single, beautiful moment at La Nacional in Chelsea, you could convince yourself that you’re in Spain—in some small-town plaza, surrounded by blue mosaic-tiled tables, fresh seafood, Spanish meats and cheeses, and some European tourists smoking cigarettes while sitting in black-and-white wicker chairs. Before you switch your brain to vacation mode and ask to bum one, a truck honking its way down 14th street reminds you that this isn't the Valencian countryside, but just the Spanish Benevolent Society. The cultural institution, founded in 1868, is one of the last vestiges of the area’s historic Little Spain, and a massive yellow and red flag on the building still waves people into the basement restaurant. photo credit: Will Hartman Far as you are from the Mediterranean, the possibility that a 2pm snack and a glass of wine will accidentally turn into dinner, leaving you buzzed on tinto with a bellyful of tapas and paella, is dangerously close. But is that actually dangerous? Or just a good excuse to take a sick day on Monday? Focus mostly on the seafood—especially the various different shrimp dishes. If you’re with at least three people, the paella mariscos is an excellent way to soak up the $9 glasses of wine. Food Rundown photo credit: Will Hartman Gazpacho We’re here for this light, aerated gazpacho, well emulsified with olive oil. It’s served ice cold, and a required order on a hot day. photo credit: Will Hartman Croquetas Caseras The cheapest way to get your jamón fix at La Nacional comes in croquette form, served adorably in an egg carton-like vessel. Tasty, but we actually prefer the wild mushroom version, which has more flavor. photo credit: Will Hartman Pulpo a la Plancha This pulpo never makes it past first base with la plancha. It’s a bit gummy and chewy, and the broiled potatoes with aioli underneath don’t help. Skip. photo credit: Will Hartman Gambas al Ajillo In the La Nacional shrimp awards, a prize we just made up, these gambas win the category for Most Outstanding Shrimp Flavor. Rich and juicy with garlic and paprika, these fat shrimp simply must be on every table. It’s non-negotiable. photo credit: Will Hartman Citrus Seafood Salad The award for Outstanding Shrimp Texture goes to this Citrus Seafood Salad, where we recognize the extraordinary plumpness of the shellfish, the light zesting of citrus, and some pretty small, yet juicy scallops. photo credit: Will Hartman Paella Mariscos This paella wins our award for Shrimp in A Supporting Role. While the socarrat is only concentrated toward the center of the pan, the seafood flavor is pronounced enough to make us forget we ever needed a crispy bottom in the first place. The chewy squid rings don’t hurt either." - Will Hartman