"It’s tough to say if any fine dining meal is worth every cent. The math is too subjective—although if a restaurant shoves enough caviar in your direction, you'll probably assume that you’re getting decent value. Still, you never know for sure. In that sense, Eleven Madison Park—in its revamped, plant-based form—achieves the impossible. After a meal at this cavernous Art Deco institution, you’ll know, from the bottom of your heart, that your food didn’t justify its $365 price tag. And yet, it’s a fun experiment—even if it only pushes a boundary or two. Omnivorous for the first two decades of its existence, EMP retains all the pomp of traditional fine dining, now with beets instead of beef. The thrills are muted and inconsistent, and you might leave feeling kind of snacky, but if you want to enjoy a high-end vegan meal in a room fit for a state dinner, you’ll appreciate the atmosphere and creativity. photo credit: Evan Sung photo credit: Bryan Kim photo credit: Evan Sung The nine-course tasting lasts two to three hours and consists of intricate bites that bounce around the globe. Caviar is, obviously, off the table, but you may get some look-alike tonburi seeds served on a stack of crisp badger flame beets, followed by a teacup of soba in an ultra-concentrated dashi. Depending on the season, you might also receive an ode to celtuce in the form of a densely layered tostada, or a charred mushroom skewer that, expertly grilled as it is, won’t prove to anyone that you spend your money efficiently. In order to keep from slowly melting, you need to remember that it’s not just the food you’re paying for. You’re paying for the warm and vigilant servers who pick stray crumbs off your table, the soaring ceilings that swallow every echo, and the mohair banquettes you sink into as the sun sets over Madison Square Park. A roving Manhattan cart is another nice touch, and the unlimited house vermouth at the end of your meal sends you off on a high note. photo credit: Bryan Kim photo credit: Bryan Kim photo credit: Bryan Kim You’re also paying for a fresh new approach to inaccessibly priced dining, although it’s not quite as bold as it seems. Naro, from the Atomix team, serves an engaging vegetarian tasting, and Le Bernardin and Per Se have options as well. And don’t forget about Dirt Candy. They’ve been at it since 2008. (That place does not, however, have a regal dining room staffed by servers in Todd Snyder suits.) When EMP took the meat out of traditional NYC fine dining, they made an admirable decision. But they kept the prices, formality, and sense of self-importance. As a result, the experiment feels half-finished. If it were less costly or more satisfying, we’d encourage you to get a front row seat. But, for now, the restaurant fills a very specific niche. It’s for folks who want to sit in the past, nibble on the future, and spend everything they have in the present. Food Rundown Tasting Menu The full tasting at Eleven Madison Park runs around nine courses and costs $365. If you don't want to spend that much, there's also a six-course option for $258, as well as a tasting in the relatively casual bar area for $195. Below, you'll find some dishes we've tried, although you should know that the offerings change seasonally. photo credit: Bryan Kim Tonburi With Badger Flame Beets And Finger Lime No, that's not caviar you see. Those are the dried and rehydrated seeds of the summer cypress. They aren't nearly as flavorful as sturgeon roe, but they do provide an interesting firm, crunchy texture. Although the best things on this plate are the raw sliced badger flame beets, which look and taste like mildly sweet, unripe peaches. photo credit: Eleven Madison Park Morel Butter With Bread Rolls After your second course, you'll probably receive some pull-apart rolls. And you'll enjoy those rolls. Warm, flaky—what's not to like? The butter, on the other hand, comes topped with what tastes like an oddly bitter morel gravy. At least it looks cool. photo credit: Bryan Kim Soba With Shitake And Wasabi Mushrooms make quite a few appearances at Eleven Madison Park, notably in this small bowl of soba. The noodles are firm and springy, and the dashi is rich, inky, and so oily it coats your lips. photo credit: Bryan Kim Celtuce Tostada With Avocado Part of an "ode to celtuce," this tostada is one of the better bites we've had here. It is, of course, kind of sad that you only get a half portion ($365 doesn't buy much these days), but the masa underneath is crisp and crumbly, almost like shortbread." - Bryan Kim
