"After nearly a decade in Noho, Fish Cheeks’ second location in Williamsburg is already making it look easy. That crowd-pleasing coconut crab curry, the dry-spiced zabb wings, and other favorites are just as good in the new space. And there are a couple of new exclusive dishes worth seeking out here: an abundant tom yum seafood hot pot with thick noodles, and a pile of marinated raw blue crabs that come with gloves, but might as well come with a fire extinguisher. Come for a quick dinner, or settle in for a night of grazing. Just try to ask for a seat in the front room over the awkwardly wedge-shaped back room." - will hartman, willa moore, molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, sonal shah