"The cramped ramen spot in the 6th is inspired by Japanese yochokos (izakaya-packed alleys), complete with Tokyo manhole covers on the floor and Japanese signage on the corrugated tin walls. While the house special sesame-spiked Kurugoma is indeed rich and delicious, the underdog is the seasonal vegetarian ramen, which might include thick green pea broth infused with mushrooms and kombu, plus koji-marinated asparagus and parmesan—and be sure to add a 48-hour marinated egg. The no-reservations policy means the lines are legendary, but the move is to come before 7pm so you can have your pick of a seat in the back dining room, at a pushcart that doubles as a two-top, or at the counter in front of the masters ladling slow-simmered Loire Valley chicken stock over homemade French Ardennes wheat noodles." - Emily Monaco
