Kodawari Ramen (Yokochō)

"The cramped ramen spot in the 6th is inspired by Japanese yochokos (izakaya-packed alleys), complete with Tokyo manhole covers on the floor and Japanese signage on the corrugated tin walls. While the house special sesame-spiked Kurugoma is indeed rich and delicious, the underdog is the seasonal vegetarian ramen, which might include thick green pea broth infused with mushrooms and kombu, plus koji-marinated asparagus and parmesan—and be sure to add a 48-hour marinated egg. The no-reservations policy means the lines are legendary, but the move is to come before 7pm so you can have your pick of a seat in the back dining room, at a pushcart that doubles as a two-top, or at the counter in front of the masters ladling slow-simmered Loire Valley chicken stock over homemade French Ardennes wheat noodles." - emily monaco

"The cramped ramen spot in the 6th is inspired by Japanese yochokos (izakaya-packed alleys), complete with Tokyo manhole covers on the floor and Japanese signage on the corrugated tin walls. While the house special sesame-spiked Kurugoma is indeed rich and delicious, the underdog is the seasonal vegetarian ramen, which might include thick green pea broth infused with mushrooms and kombu, plus koji-marinated asparagus and parmesan—and be sure to add a 48-hour marinated egg. The no-reservations policy means the lines are legendary, but the move is to come before 7pm so you can have your pick of a seat in the back dining room, at a pushcart that doubles as a two-top, or at the counter in front of the masters ladling slow-simmered Loire Valley chicken stock over homemade French Ardennes wheat noodles." - Emily Monaco

"If you walk into the Kodawari Ramen location in the 2nd and think to yourself: “Gee, I wonder if they’re trying to make this feel like a market in Tokyo,” you’d be very right. The staff are in white rubber boots, drying fish hangs from the rafters, and styrofoam trays of fresh ones sit on the floor. (And if you’re really paying attention, perhaps you noticed that the soundtrack is an actual recording of the Tsukiji Outer Market). At the outpost in the 6th, the market chaos is replaced with low lighting, paper lanterns, and a long red counter. The ramen at both is a warm umami hug, especially the “sardine bomb,” with its namesake fish and chashu Iberico pork. There’s always a wait, so scan the QR code to get on the list, then go wander around. " - sophie friedman

"The bustling vibe and cramped dimensions of this eatery instantly conjure up pictures of historic Tokyo. The ramen, made on site and served in delicious broths of Loiret poultry, attract gourmets from every horizon. The house speciality is kurugoma ramen made with a secret black sesame seed sauce and pata negra pork. Avoid peak times, as the place is very popular. Fully deserving of its success." - Michelin Inspector

"The ramen and the decor at Kodawari Yokocho will transport you from France’s capital to Japan’s." - Eleanor Aldridge