Taquería Frontera Review - Cypress Park - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"Taquería Frontera is the American cousin of a Tijuana taco chain known for its al pastor—and the delicious marinated pork tacos are what you should prioritize here. This street corner taquería is hard to miss with its bright yellow signage and sidewalk stools that look onto the sizzling grills. That’s where you get a front-row view of the spinning trompo seasoned with lots of smoky dried chiles and shaved to order onto fresh corn tortillas. It’s the spiciest al pastor we’ve had recently, but the sliced pineapple they fling on top adds a nice pop of sweetness. Order your al pastor “con todo,” and they’ll drizzle on a cilantro crema that cools things down a few notches. The rest of the Frontera’s meats don’t reach the heights of the al pastor, but the braised lengua, chopped chorizo, and asada are all solid. Skip the dry-ish birria, though, which could use an injection of consommé. Taquería Frontera has all of the requirements of a very good neighborhood taquería: fast, convenient, and perfect for spontaneously pulling over for tacos on the ride home. Food Rundown Al Pastor Taco This is Frontera’s signature item, and we’d be happy with just a plateful of them as our order. The marinated pork glistens with juices as it’s shaved from the rotating spit. The meat’s brick-red spice rub tastes like sticking your nose in a sack of dried chilies, and the cool cilantro crema and sweet pineapple dolloped on top bring it all together. Chorizo Taco Similar to the al pastor, the finely chopped chorizo is deliciously spicy, especially when paired with Frontera’s red and green salsa, both of which pack the same roasted chile burn (if your spice limit stops at deli mustard, ask for them on the side). Asada Taco The grilled skirt steak here is well-seasoned and tender, but it’s missing the char and smokiness you’d want from a great asada street taco. We’re not made about the generous dollop of rich guacamole, though. Lengua Taco Frontera’s stewed lengua ticks all of the boxes: the soft, juicy cubes of meat melt away in two chomps. And it's even better in burrito form (their's are the compact, homestyle kind lined with molten cheese and beans). Go with this meat over the asada. Frijoles Sencillos These translate to “simple beans,” which is accurate. The side of stewed pintos is warm and comforting, we just wish there was a bit more seasoning going on." - Sylvio Martins
