"There’s little room for dithering at a restaurant like Namak Mandi. The cash-only Pashtun restaurant in Tooting is a constantly fizzing, bubbling, flaming, moving, and smoking box. Families and friends bag one of their tables early, while the hyper-organised head up to their private dining room to attack a pre-ordered whole lamb while sitting cross-legged on cushions. Discus-shaped crispy chapli kebabs being cooked in crackling fat soundtrack the room, enormous hanging Afghan naans float past like edible comfort blankets, and flame-torched woks full of fresh karahi are constantly stirred and swapped. All are essential orders." - rianne shlebak, sinead cranna, jake missing, daisy meager
Aleksandra Boruch
