"French in name and menu, but decidedly British in nature, The French is less of an institution and more of a genuine source of London-wide pride. The Soho boozer’s cosy upstairs dining room is similarly wonderful, and has the air of a place that has seen thousands of glasses spilled and hundreds of thousands more poured. The menu is a mix of British and French techniques and combinations. Confit garlic and goats’ curd on toast, say, or apple crumble and calvados custard. Thursday is steak frites day, with pink rib-eye and peerless crispy homemade fries." - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, daisy meager, sinead cranna