"Opened by Mister Jiu’s alums, Four Kings is that rare place that manages to soar above high expectations. ’90s Canto-Pop plays through the speakers and Cantonese film posters line the walls of this wooden oasis that already feels lived in despite only being open since mid-March. Cantonese classics are reimagined, like a dry-aged squab with crispy skin and XO escargot with fluffy milk bread that we now crave daily. Unfortunately, the secret is already out, but they’re open until 11pm, so either wait in the walk-in line for bar seating, incessantly check OpenTable, or simply stop by on the later side for one of the best meals you can get in this city past 9pm." - julia chen 1, ricky rodriguez