Paradise Soho Review - Soho - London - The Infatuation
"When Paradise opened in 2020, it was an innovative, moody, and effortlessly cool Soho restaurant that was limited in seating but not in incredible dishes. The interiors are still stunning but the menu, which once made it one of London’s best Sri Lankan restaurants, has had a complete makeover too—and we wish it didn’t. photo credit: Bhavya Pansari photo credit: Bhavya Pansari photo credit: Bhavya Pansari The two-hour, six-course dinner tasting menu is made up of dishes that don’t quite hit the mark. Kimbula banis, a traditionally sweet croissant-shaped snack, is reimagined as a savoury bite-sized cube of pastry, filled with green chilli custard and chutney, with a small tower of grated cheese on top. The buttermilk roti—which is still a major highlight—has been shrunk to a cookie-cutter size, and a fine dining swipe of black garlic curry with hay-smoked celeriac isn’t enough to make this dish enjoyable. The chef circles around each table explaining the dish being served as if reading from a script, and despite the charming hidden drawers where you’ll find your cutlery, it all feels a little bit more serious—and a lot less exciting. photo credit: Bhavya Pansari photo credit: Bhavya Pansari" - Rianne Shlebak
