"It’s a chain. It’s in Times Square. It’s patronized by tourists who know that barbecue is an American food, but haven’t studied the regional nuance of our cuisine. And yet, Virgil’s is truly not bad. In a blind tasting, the brisket and ribs could hold their own against a much more reputable BBQ joint. They might not win first place, but they’re smoky and tender, with a heavy, salty bark. You don’t need to run to Virgil’s, but if an out-of-towner drags you here before a Broadway show, don’t worry about bringing your own food in a ziploc bag. In the bi-level space with wood-paneled walls and servers dressed in gingham, you can eke out a perfectly satisfactory, $30 meal." - Bryan Kim
Kate Previte
