Al & Bea's Mexican Food - Review - Boyle Heights - Los Angeles - The Infatuation

"Sometimes a bean and cheese burrito is just a bean and cheese. But not at Al & Bea's. The humble burrito is a beloved staple at this 50-year-old Boyle Heights institution, and every time we order one, we're reminded how fantastic something filled with just two ingredients (three if you count the famous green salsa) can be. Head to Al & Bea's on a Saturday afternoon and you’ll find the whole neighborhood ordering from the small takeout window and hanging out on picnic tables—families, high school dates, local beat cops, and everyone in between. The kitchen also does retro Mexican classics like fried tacos, tostadas, and guacamole fries, but none of them are memorable enough that they should distract from that simple but glorious burrito. Food Rundown Bean & Cheese Burrito (Green Sauce) As unremarkable as it looks, there's some kind of magic happening in this basic bean and cheese. Perhaps it's because the silky-smooth refried beans are so hot when they're wrapped up in the flour tortilla, they don't just melt with the shredded orange cheese, they form a liquid hot magma that oozes with flavor. If that description doesn't make it clear, don't eat this burrito over your lap—it's a gusher. Also, you'll be asked if you want green or red sauce in your burrito. The answer is always green, for reasons detailed below. Green Sauce/Red Sauce Choosing a salsa at your average taqueria might seem low-stakes, but Al & Bea's fans know here it's a matter of great importance. The mild and savory green sauce—which is actually orange-ish in color–is our clear favorite, made with stewed tomatillos and allegedly a hint of chicken bouillon. The spicier red sauce tastes of dried chiles and oregano, and while it's good on their tacos, it tends to overpower the subtle nuances of their burritos. Everything Taco The crunchy-shell shredded beef tacos at Al & Bea's are decent and are a nice way to round out a burrito lunch, but they're not the main reason we'd send you here. Ordering your tacos with "everything" means a splat of loose guacamole on top, which is tasty, but does turn the whole thing into a bit of a mess." - Garrett Snyder