Helsinki

"Helsinki locals travel to “sheep island” to unwind, have a picnic or to pet the summer tenants of nearby Kuusiluoto island (a flock of free-roaming and amicable sheep). It’s just a few kilometres from the centre, yet Lammassaari feels like a world away from the bustle of the city. To get there, hop on one of Helsinki’s city bikes and cycle to Vanhakaupunki before taking the wooden walkway to the island."

"Greeting you at this hotel is Ai Weiwei’s “Tianwu” – a silk-and-bamboo kite that is the artist’s only work on permanent public display. Equal thought and care has gone into the rest of the St George, which occupies two merged 19th-century buildings, formerly home to the Finnish Literature Society. Under the guidance of Carola Rytsölä and Mirkku Kullberg (ex-CEO of Artek), these were transformed into 148 eminently graceful rooms and five suites. The feel is more elegant home than pillow-for-the-night: hardwood floors, walls in soft olive hues, abstract artwork by Finnish artists and solid-oak furniture by Sibast. The St George sets a new benchmark for the city."

"This 1930s gem is a long-time Monocle favourite. It’s one of the most traditional of Helsinki’s restaurants, loved by families, artists and in-the-know travellers alike. Speaking of artists, the mural of the sea horse at the back was painted by two art students in the 1970s. The classic, timeless menu is a good window on typical Finnish cuisine. Must-try dishes include fried Baltic herring with beetroot; cabbage rolls with wild mushrooms; and Sea Horse’s signature dish, beef steak with fried onions. Can’t decide? Ask the knowledgeable staff – most have been here for 10 to 20 years."

"Founders and partners Jarkko Kallio and Antti Laitinen launched this flagship shop on a bright corner plot in Kamppi in 2018. Together they design effortlessly elegant, practical and modern men’s clothing that’s neither formal nor casual – one of their made-to-measure jackets is as suited to the opera as it is to after-work drinks. “For us it’s not natural that at work you look like one thing and in leisure time like something else,” says Kallio. He and Laitinen want men to feel comfortable and well presented at all times. In addition to suits and shirts, they put out brightly coloured jumpers, simple T-shirts and woollen parkas."

"The Amos Rex museum combines some of the best of old and new Helsinki amid striking architecture, much of which is below ground. The cultural institution showcases historic artefacts from the former Amos Anderson Art Museum and also hosts contemporary exhibitions in its cavernous interior. The vast space was created by hollowing out the earth beneath Lasipalatsin aukio – a public square that has itself been given a curvy and contoured makeover. Above ground, the architecture is no less impressive, with bars, cafés and a 590-seat cinema inside the functionalist 1930s gem that is Lasipalatsi."

"Finland got its first railway line back in 1860 but the original station was soon too small to handle the increasing number of passengers. Today Helsinki Central Station is the country’s most frequented building, servicing 200,000 passengers a day. Eliel Saarinen won a competition to design the new station in 1904, with plans for a muscular structure that epitomised the urgency and futurism of modern transport. Unfortunately the eruption of the Finnish Civil War delayed the opening until 1919, by which time the architect had also drastically altered his design. The most striking aspects of the station include the clock tower and four huge granite statues that flank the entrance. One rarely seen feature of the building is a private waiting lounge reserved for the use of the president of Finland."

"If you fantasise about turning a few laps in the sightline of a presidential palace or in the shadow of a cruise ship, then head to Allas Sea Pool. This contemporary outdoor construction floats in the harbour directly in front of Kauppatori. Visitors can choose between three pools: sea water (using filtered water pumped in from beyond the harbour); children’s; and a main lap pool, which is heated year-round. Even when air temperatures plunge below zero and the sea is caked in ice you’ll find Helsinkians plying up and down in the steam. The daily entrance fee includes access to the sauna and other facilities."