"At Délice & Sarrasin, a charming French bistro in the West Village, vegans can bide their time in style, enticing new recruits with the beau ideal of meatless haute cuisine. Vegan French cookery exposes an interesting paradox. On one hand, the very existence of Délice & Sarrasin and restaurants like it serves as a critique of animal farming—see, you can eat well without inflicting violence on sentient life-forms. On the other, Yvette Caron, Délice & Sarrasin’s head chef, does not wish to alienate the omnivorous, a good number of whom she counts among her patrons. She has tactfully sprinkled her menu with all the animalic terms that we accept as unremarkably normative: “Brie,” “duck,” “salmon.” The kitchen is stocked with none of these, of course, only their vegetal reinterpretations at the hands of an imaginative chef." - David Kortava
