The Merry Eclecticism of Thai Street Food at Soothr | The New Yorker
"There’s something at once jovial and jarring about Soothr, the rare restaurant born in the age of COVID that has not only survived but thrived, by adjusting to the erratic rhythms of pandemic dining. Such militaristic timekeeping has undoubtedly become more necessary since Soothr’s acquisition of a Michelin Plate, in May, but the tempo contrasts sharply with the lethargic mood of mid-century glamour inside the restaurant, evoked through carved wooden screens, a rotary pay phone, and vintage tasselled lampshades. The drinks, too, nod to an enchanted past; each of nine cocktails is named after an auspicious gemstone, which might seem hokey if the beverages were less well made. Originally conceived as a noodle shop, Soothr has grown its menu to reflect the merry eclecticism of a street fair." - Jiayang Fan
