A Return to Extraordinary Lavishness, at Torrisi | The New Yorker
"Are we living in a Roaring Twenties redux, as was predicted when the pandemic began to wane? The other night, at the recently revived Torrisi, in Nolita’s historic Puck Building, a woman wearing a flapper headband was a bit too on the nose for my taste, but the restaurant does suggest a return to a brand of extraordinary lavishness that dissipated as the virus spread. This might be the hottest table in town. Having failed to make a reservation earlier than 11 P.M. (Exhibit A: late-night dining is back), I arrived, on two afternoons, fifteen minutes before the doors opened, to find a line snaking down the block..." - Hannah Goldfield
Photographs by Caroline Tompkins for The New Yorker
