24 The Oval
Restaurant · Stockwell ·
British fare, Sunday roasts, in-house charcuterie, garden
![24 The Oval by 24 The Oval [Official Photo]](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/63611504/best_restaurants_vauxhall_london_24_oval.0.0.jpg "24 The Oval by 24 The Oval [Official Photo]")
British fare, Sunday roasts, in-house charcuterie, garden
"As the name suggests, this popular neighbourhood spot is close enough to the cricket ground to hear the clack of ball on bat. Co-owner of celebrated Clapham restaurant The Dairy Matt Wells, and Andrew Bradford, of Knife Steakhouse, are behind a restaurant where the menu reads like a roll call of the finest seasonal ingredients. An assured kitchen team — many of them Dairy alumni — produces charcuterie in-house and serves one of the best Sunday roasts in the area, including a vegetarian version with a top-notch mushroom and spinach wellington." - Helen Graves
"Housed in an unpretentious, light‑filled space, the kitchen—staffed by alumni of The Dairy, Wild Honey and Paradise Garage—turns out carefully thought‑through, unfussy dishes that steer clear of showiness. Examples include perfectly judged wild mushroom ravioli and a succulent poached chicken with lettuce and peas; the cooking is self‑assured and accessible, likely to draw diners from beyond the immediate neighbourhood, and deserving of a wider audience even if some commentary around the area feels unnecessarily snarky." - George Reynolds
"Opened by Matt Wells and Andrew Bradford (Wells also co-owns The Dairy and its offshoots with partner Robin Gill, and the pair co-own Clapham steakhouse Knife), and staffed with alumni from The Dairy—including Simon Woodrow (former head chef of Paradise Garage) and George East—the new modern-British neighbourhood bistro aims for a "neighbourhood vibe" with non-pretentious, quality, ingredient-led cooking. The launch was deliberately low-key: it has been operating since early April with announcements limited to Instagram and printed signs on the shopfront. The menu rejects the voguish small-plates trend in favor of a more traditional flow, offering smaller dishes such as English asparagus with salt cod brandade and garden radishes, and lamb sweetbreads with fresh curd, shallots and garden herbs that lead into larger plates like BBQ monkfish with smoked mussels, salsify and seaweed, and bavette with bone marrow, tropea onions and seed granola. A selection of sides spotlights British vegetables in familiar, welcoming preparations, reinforcing the unpretentious neighbourhood approach while underscoring the serious culinary pedigree behind the team." - Andrew Leitch
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