Popular South London Steakhouse Opens New Restaurant 24 The Oval | Eater London

"Opened by Matt Wells and Andrew Bradford (Wells also co-owns The Dairy and its offshoots with partner Robin Gill, and the pair co-own Clapham steakhouse Knife), and staffed with alumni from The Dairy—including Simon Woodrow (former head chef of Paradise Garage) and George East—the new modern-British neighbourhood bistro aims for a "neighbourhood vibe" with non-pretentious, quality, ingredient-led cooking. The launch was deliberately low-key: it has been operating since early April with announcements limited to Instagram and printed signs on the shopfront. The menu rejects the voguish small-plates trend in favor of a more traditional flow, offering smaller dishes such as English asparagus with salt cod brandade and garden radishes, and lamb sweetbreads with fresh curd, shallots and garden herbs that lead into larger plates like BBQ monkfish with smoked mussels, salsify and seaweed, and bavette with bone marrow, tropea onions and seed granola. A selection of sides spotlights British vegetables in familiar, welcoming preparations, reinforcing the unpretentious neighbourhood approach while underscoring the serious culinary pedigree behind the team." - Andrew Leitch