Rick R.
Yelp
We visited Austin recently, in search of exceptional dining. The recommendation: Emmer & Rye. This restaurant has been recognized by Michelin, granted the rating of Bib Gourmand, not quite a Michelin star rating, but prized nonetheless, granted for quality and consistency.
The restaurant sits on Rainey, street parking difficult to find, though it seems valet parking may be available. We finally worked our way through the area road construction and found a nearby lot.
We were visiting on a Saturday night and were immediately seated at our reserved time. The contemporary restaurant was bustling, but we noticed bar seating, tables and booths available. The open kitchen is seen fronting the dining room, a wall of wine separating two major areas of the restaurant. The ambient sound level was significant, not surprising given the large open area that describes the restaurant, the sound somewhat compromising our table conversation.
Review of the menu confirmed what had been described: a menu of limited appetizers, limited second courses and limited entrees. This is a restaurant that features the "shareable menu", the limited nature allowing guests to fully explore the crafted offerings of the chef. The dining party selects a couple of items from the offered courses, and the selections are presented at center table, with the selections to be ...well...shared by the diners. Think BBQ family table dining, or sharing a mound of crawfish at Perino's in New Orleans, or sharing tapas at Toro Kitchen in San Antonio. This approachable notion of dining is growing in popularity with gastronomes, and it gives talented chefs free rein to ply their avante-garde skills.
The menu at Emmer & Rye changes frequently. The eve of our visit, we selected Gulf Oysters and their Sourdough Bread. The oysters were presented on shell, beautifully seasoned and dressed with roe. Our group considered the appetizer excellent. Our waiter, Tre, recommended the sourdough bread, served with three differently seasoned butters, telling that this was the best in the city. We considered the bread...just OK.
For second course, we selected the Gnocchetti and the Papardelle. The gnocchetti was presented with basil butter, peppers and pecorino. The flavors were exceptional, praised by our group. The papardelle was prepared wagyu with a tangy cream that we devoured.
Next up: Carnitas and Texas Wagyu Steak. The carnitas were medallions of lamb and pork, served with sweet potato and candied nuts. We considered the carnitas slightly overcooked, but the flavor, especially the sweetness of the pecans complemented the dish. The Wagyu was presented as several slices, dressed with creamy mousse and garlic mojo. The protein was literally melt in the mouth, the flavors superb.
Marjan after conversation with the sommelier, selected Oltrepo Pavese Pinot, a perfect selection for our dinner.
We found the staff to be appropriately attentive, not intrusive, and we particularly found the sommelier (sorry, I cannot recall her name) well versed with their wines, and her perceptions completely matched the nuances of Marjan's preferences.
A word about the "shared menu" restaurant. Some diners remarked that they left the restaurant "hungry". It is true, that portions are smaller, and when shared among diners, may not satisfy those in search of say, a 16 oz. ribeye. But if one is looking for true culinary bliss, the creative restaurant may be the answer. We totally enjoyed our dining experience, and we will definitely return. Marjan rates Emmer & Rye 5 origami boots. Enjoy Yelpers!!