Jack Maguire
Google
Tucked away behind a bookshelf, like a secret passage, lies an omakase experience so personal, it feels like an intrusion on a sacred ritual. This is Chef Yanaga's den, a blend of sleek modernity, Japanese reverence, and Star Wars memorabilia. The handwritten menu is a glimpse into the mind of a culinary master.
This is intimacy cranked to eleven. You’re not just watching a chef; you're entering his world, where each grain of rice is a decision, where aging fish is elevated to an art form. Forget what you think you know about “fresh.” Yanaga has mastered the alchemy of aging. Tonight’s menu teases with kinmedai, its skin flame-kissed, yielding a delicate smokiness. The isaki offers a surprising resistance before melting on the tongue. Each bite is a journey through carefully cultivated flavors and textures, achieved through meticulous aging.
Yanaga throws expectations out the window. A sea bass temaki arrives, crisp nori cradling seasoned rice. Next, a pressed-style bozushi with a vinegar-forward flavor. Then, a toro tartare served on the finest sliver of toast, blurring the lines between extravagance and artistry. The nigiri are a parade of pristine seafood. The kawahagi is delicate, almost translucent. The kuro dai offers a clean, bright flavor. With the kuro mutsu, Yanaga takes you to deeper waters, the bluefish boasting a richer, oilier profile. The procession of flavors builds to a crescendo with chu-toro and otoro, the fatty tuna aged to buttery perfection.
It's not just the food that makes this experience remarkable. It’s the atmosphere, the shared experience. Yanaga himself is a force of nature, opinionated, engaging, a maestro wielding a razor-sharp knife and a disarming wit. This is Michelin-grade sushi served in a room that feels both unique and welcoming. Even the end of the menu is thoughtful: a bowl of miso shiru, followed by a "soft serve," a playful wink from a chef who knows how to end a meal on a high note. It’s an experience that transcends mere dining. If you find yourself lucky enough to have a seat, go as soon as possible.
