Timothy J.
Yelp
If I had to sum up my first impression of Joyce in one word, it would be "beautiful"! The decor is a striking blend of nostalgia and elegance--think wicker shades on the light fixtures, soft pastels, black art, forest green velvet seats, and timeless music that transports you to a Saturday morning when Mom was cleaning the house. It's a welcoming and charming atmosphere that sets the stage for what should be a memorable dining experience. To top it off, the service was exceptional. The thoughtful front desk staff quickly seats you and gives a quick rundown of the menu.
But how did it taste?
Island Cornbread - Nicely browned with fresh cracked salt and pepper on top, and the butter is a nice touch. It's good, but honestly, it's not anything that will make you get the "Holy Ghost!"
Crawfish Hushpuppies - These were a major letdown. Traditionally, hushpuppies are deep-fried cornmeal batter with seasonings and perhaps a few whole corn kernels to add texture and freshness. Unfortunately, these were doughy with an undercooked "breading". The batter didn't taste like cornmeal at all. I could tell the dish had some green onions and chunks of crawfish, but it couldn't save this one. Definitely not what I was expecting.
Nashville Hot Catfish - This was a highlight of the meal. Flaky, spicy, and perfectly battered. It lived up to its billing and was the standout dish of the evening. The remoulade sauce was a nice addition, balancing out the heat.
Oyster Perloo with Chorizo Sausage - I was sold on the "like jambalaya" description from the hostess, but this dish didn't live up to expectations. It looked nothing like the image posted on their site. My date and I were the only ones left in the restaurant with nearly 3 hours to go before closing--there was no excuse for a dish that came out underseasoned and lacking in flavor and far off from what was advertised. The only redeeming element was the saltiness of the sausage.
In the end, I ended up sending both the Perloo and the Crawfish Hushpuppies back. As much as I'd love to see a high-quality elevated soul food restaurant in this area, there are a few things Joyce will need to address in order to truly succeed.
1. Menu Structure - The menu is decadent, but there's a disconnect between the dishes themselves and the "à la carte" structure they're presented in. The hostess made it clear that everything should be ordered family-style to share, but when you look at the menu, it's not immediately clear why this is the case when dishes like the pork chop or Perloo are complete entree with meat and a starch. It's a concept I'm familiar with, but it felt a little off given the format of the menu.
2. Menu Availability - I tried to order Shrimp & Grits, only to find out that it's a brunch-only item. The same went for the collard greens, which are apparently exclusive to the Sunday brunch menu. On a Sunday evening, I found this disappointing. I think staple items like these should be available at all times unless there's a specific reason they aren't.
3. Cultural Authenticity - As much as it pains me to mention this, it's hard to ignore that the cooking staff wasn't Black. Now, I have nothing but respect for the chef and the owners, but when you're selling a niche product like soul food, it feels a bit off when the person cooking it doesn't have cultural ties to the cuisine. A dish like the hushpuppies, which should be cornmeal-based, really highlights this disconnect. I also understand how easy it is to undercook something like that, so it's especially important for the kitchen staff to taste or test the dish before serving.
Despite these critiques, I'm still rooting for Joyce and plan to return for brunch, hoping for a better experience that will be worth celebrating.