Eric S.
Yelp
YIN | YANG
We were blown away by a perfectly balanced meal at this fine dining restaurant in Rockford.
Prior to staying in the area, I researched the best places for a romantic dinner. After one look at the menu, I knew I'd found the perfect spot in Abreo, a small plates restaurant in the downtown district. There were a few other customers when my wife and I arrived on a Friday at 7pm. Though there's a lot next door, it's tiny, so street parking is your best bet.
Once seated, I started with a Wiki-Wiki ($18) that was strong and boozy, with rum, mezcal, chartreuse, lime, orgeat and bitters. Nichole S didn't really care for the L.V. ($13), a cocktail made with vodka, passionfruit, aperol, lemon and basil, so I drank hers while she switched to the Wiki-Wiki.
The cheese curds ($9) were amazing enough to eat on their own, but I would've liked to see a homemade aioli or buttermilk ranch to dip them in. The apple salad ($10) was a nice palate-cleanser with julienned apples, arugula, goat cheese, pine nuts, parmesan, and fried brussel sprouts.
We almost passed on the Hamachi ponzu ($23) with daikon radish, grapefruit, basil, and jalapeno. I'm glad we didn't, because it balanced out the heaviness of the short rib tortelloni ($32). The tortelloni were a weekly special, so I'm light on details for that one.
My favorite dish of the evening was the 'fancy AF potato' ($18), a wonderful reinterpretation of a classic. A crispy layered potato in shallot cream was topped with crème fraiche, rainbow trout roe and chives. The plating was magnificent, the taste divine--the "Moira Rose edition" of a baked potato.
Bread = 5+
Circuses = 5
Abreo's desserts were otherworldly. The Mango Cloud ($11) is their signature item: a poached meringue on top a bed of mango-lime custard, with aerated coconut milk, coconut candy, lemongrass and mint. Visually stunning, light as a feather and absolutely delicious, this was one of the most impressive desserts we've had in years.
If the mango cloud were a motorbike, then the molten chocolate lava cake ($12) was an 18-wheel semi. It was decadent, surrounded by a moat of salted caramel and a toasted marshmallow flourish. Awesome stuff, even if my wife found it a bit too rich. More for me, then!
Our server Josh was great and the ambiance set the mood for a very intimate dinner. They automatically add 20% service charge, which was fine given the great service we had. Between the 5 savory dishes + 2 desserts + 3 drinks we shared, the tab came to roughly $200; not too bad. We've spent way more on way less.
* TL;DR *
Abreo's chef de cuisine put together a menu brimming with opposite-yet-interconnected textures, flavors, and temperatures.
For every heavy item (fancy potato, short rib tortelloni), there was lighter fare (the delicate Hamachi crudo). The refreshing apple salad provided a counterpoint to the gooey cheese curds, just as the dream-like cloud of poached meringue helped offset the boldness of the molten chocolate cake.
Paul Sletten and his team opened Abreo in 2005 and did a commendable job staying in business through the pandemic. If it weren't for them, Rockford would have effectively zero options for a "nice" dinner that isn't an Italian restaurant. Their overall 4.5* rating on Tripadvisor and Yelp is well-earned.
I can't remember what I ate for lunch today, but years from now, I'll randomly think about the mango cloud and how f@&#^$ cool it was. When a dish lives rent-free in your head like that, you know you've found a winner.
Abreo is truly exceptional. Onto my "Best of Illinois" list you go!