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Review by Les Roka at The Utah Review
The warm colors, drapes and the banquettes at Adelaide Urban Brasseries at Le Méridien accent a soothing, welcoming holiday dining vibe away from home.
The Thanksgiving offering made a worthy star out of turkey in its attractive presentation featuring a salt-cured, herb-roasted turkey breast with mashed potatoes and an excellent gravy with notes of cranberry, mostarda and hard cider. The meat was fork tender and seasoned thoroughly. Likewise, the short ribs with a burgundy sauce were just as tender.
There were playful tweaks on other items: the sweet potato poppers with gruyère featured a gastrique with jalapeño-infused honey, the broccoli cauliflower gratin with cream cheese, the beef carpaccio was light, bright and had crispy bits of texture.
As for desserts, the dark chocolate cake with hazelnut croquant was moist and uplifting (decadence does not need to be heavy); the hot toddy apple pie stood out once the honeycomb gelato melted on its surface. Small details like these are intriguing.
Service was graceful and in the spirit of the holiday. Nate’s old-fashioned cocktail interpretation is also a star from the bar.