Annie Laura's Kitchen - Review - Riverdale - Atlanta - The Infatuation
"Folks line up in the drive-thru of this Riverdale soul food spot and leave with heavy containers full of decent takes on old-school classics. Currently, the drive-thru (or a small counter-service window) is the only way to get food, since Annie Laurie’s dining room has been indefinitely closed.
That drive-thru is a good reason to keep this place in mind when you can’ t be bothered to get out of your car, because the food is decent, though uneven. The proteins shine the most. The seasoning on the fried chicken soaks into the meat, and the golden-fried whiting is good enough to be hot sauce optional. As for the sides, the yams are sweet and soft without being mushy, and the cornbread dressing is another reliable pick. The collards, though, need more salt, and the mac and cheese runs too thin to be satisfying.
If you don’t place an online order, expect to wait anywhere from 20- to 45-minutes after paying at the drive-thru before your order is ready (park and they’ll bring it out to you). Regulars who’ve loved this place since it opened in 2010 will wait anytime without issue. For the rest of us, the convenience of a hearty (albeit slow service) drive-thru meal is the main reason to drop by.
Food Rundown
Fried Chicken
The draw here is that the chicken is really well seasoned, and that flavor sinks deep into the meat. Super crispy? No. But it still gets the job done well enough.
Fried Whiting
Like the chicken, the skin isn’t super crisp, but the salty, garlicky breading makes this worthy of an order. Hot sauce is welcomed but not required.
photo credit: Jacinta Howard
Collard Greens
These are cooked well—sturdy and soft in the right places, but missing some salt. Get these home, spice them up, and you’ll be alright.
Yams
Run-of-the-mill for a soul food joint. Nothing noteworthy here—they’re sweet and mingle well with your meats.
Mac & Cheese
A little too thin in the middle. Could use better seasoning too. Not terrible, but not as great as you’d hope coming from an old-school soul food spot.
Turkey Wing
The turkey wing covered in gravy is one of the best orders here. The gravy is hearty, and the meat on the wing holds the flavor to the bone.
photo credit: Jacinta Howard" - Jacinta Howard