Maximilian H.
Google
Arriving at the room does not fall short in spreading its magic. No matter how often one does it, the view of a glimmering city from an upper position will never cease to amaze me.
Besides that the interior leaves nothing to complain. Nice lights, comfy chair, uneventful yet pleasant tableware.
Appreciated the little detail of exchanging the napkin for desert.
To me the service was a bit ambiguous. Some folks were extraordinary, some a bit shy on words and very hasty. On average still a good, but not a very good experience.
Let me move to what matters the most: The menu. I had the 18-course menu „Physis“.
I enjoyed the menu telling a story, yet I would have felt that a little text or something similar on the otherwise splendidly designed menu card would have helped understanding the inspiration even better.
The amuse bouche were a nice little storyline on their own, but taste-wise a bit unexciting. My biggest disappointment was the sour dough bread, which was clearly a bit overbaked.
The first course of beetroot and yoghurt was an eyesight, but did not offer much for the tastebuds. Very plain.
The bone marrow was similar, without the optical impressiveness. Not a good start in all honesty.
Fortunately this changed with the next course. The Chawanmushi was phenomenal. Great variety in textures and flavours, very well combined. The sweetly fermented garlic rounded the dish. The first of my three highlights.
Next up was broccoli pasta, which also convinced me. Not as pronounced as the previous dish, yet the complex flavours got the parmigiano to shine.
The tuna taco did not excite me overly. The tuna was a tard bit plain, while the salad did not add anything in terms of flavour.
The miso soup was lovely, but nothing to remember.
The trout was a real piece of art. I will talk about the presentation later, but his one was amazing. The trout clearly had the main role in the play, but the sauces were great support acts. Enjoyed the fish.
Next up was sea bass and what can I say: A classic, well executed with some nuanced flavours on the side. Well done!
The creamy rice was a bit of an odd one, as the sous chef coming to the table to serve it marked it as something very special. While it was good, it could not live up to it. To me it lacked a bit of complexity and felt more like a high-level comfort food.
The main course was, as it should be, my 2nd highlight of the day. Well executed pigeon with the nice twist of including it into a Mediterranean salad. Absolutely loved that twist. Build around a classic without stealing the show.
Immediately after highlight #2, numero 3 arrived. Nduja ice cream , ricotta and honey. Sounds funky? Indeed. Took me a bit to get used to it, but once I did I absolutely adored it.
The other two deserts were solid, but lacked the creativity of the first. After all the patisserie is still one of the main differences between 1 and mor stars.
Ending the menu as it started, with potato-imitating and very tasty almonds was a lovely idea.
To me, the Arco is in between 4-5 stars. Some dishes did not fully convince me, but there were also many great ones. What tipped the scale for me, was the amazing presentation of the dishes. In the Arco the plates are real art and I enjoyed that dearly.