Gary I.
Yelp
Asakura takes over the old Yamakasè space with a cleaner, more organized look decorated with auspicious, Japanese symbols discreetly displayed. Very limited seating with 3 tables and 6 high chairs at the Chef's counter so reservations are de rigueur.
Executive Chef Yoshida and General Manager Ishiba set the pace in friendly, warm service. There is a short course Kaisèki-Omakasè (oh mah kah seh) seating at 5pm and a full course at 7pm. The Kaisèki-Omakasè start on time so make sure to arrive on time or be left behind.
As is typical of high-end Japanese restaurants, the seasons are recognized in terms of ingredients as well as touches of seasonal motif on ceramic accoutrements.
So wonderful that DineLA on occasion brings to attention a restaurant so finely tuned in exquisite, understated, elegant cuisine. Our limited menu was full of revelatory morsels that really hit the mark.
1) Basket of Appetizers:
A) Gindara/Sable fish marinated, sweet Kasu Zukè lightly grilled that was flakey, buttery, fatty. Bit of finely grated Daikon radish to add "spiciness".
B) Tamago Yaki: Moist, eggy, egg omelet, whisper of sweetness.
C) Compressed chicken thigh "torchon". Like a baked sausage with some parts plush and other parts more meaty and firm. Good Jidori chicken flavour. Fatty, chewy, thin skin acts as the casing.
D) Panko bread crumb encrusted Kazu no Ko Kombu/cod roe on kelp leaf cube fried in oil. Exercise in popping, crunchy texture with faint sea vegetable scent.
E) Poached dried apricot, touch of creamy Tōfu purée topped with a sweet black bean symbolizing good health.
F) Dashi/broth braised ice berg lettuce, scattering of Shirasu/salted micro baby fish fry & Katsuo Bushi/shaved, dried Bonito flakes adds more sea Umami.
G) Goma Dōfu: Not made from soy bean but made from Kuzu. Texture is smooth, gooey, plush, touch sticky in sweet Shōyu/soy sauce, Mirin/sweet Sakè, Dashi. Touch of freshly ground Wasabi root adds an aromatically pungent counterpoint.
2) Chawan Mushi/egg custard soup: Complex construction. Silky, Dashi infused ultra soft, savory custard hides velvety sea scallops along with crunchy toasted rice.
An Kakè (ah kah keh) Sauce Velouté that is also silky, velvet is poured on top. We opted for Truffe Noir de Périgord/French black truffle hand shaved over the Chawan Mushi for nutty, earthy, nubby textural effect. This may be Asakura's chef-d'oeuvre, signature dish.
3) Osetra Caviar comes out of a smoke box for a magical, dramatic effect performed by Chef Yoshida. The capelli d'angelo/angel hair wheat pasta is al dente in a soupçon of rich meaty Dashi. The Osetra is creamy, sweet, cherry wood smoked with a touch of sea saltiness. Another must get.
4) A5 Wagyū from Kyōto is a tenderloin cut with less fat and more plush beefiness in a Sauce demi-glace made with earthy, black garlic and beef bouillon on a bed of sweet parsnips purée.
Coming down to earth, steamed rice, Miso soup, salt brined pickles round out and conclude the main meal.
1-4a) When I asked for a good bottle of Sakè (sah keh) to pair with the Omakasè, General Manager Ishiba suggested Hakurakusèi Tokubetsu Junmai class, Shinshu/new Sakè.
Neutral bouquet, subtle taste of apples, subliminal bitterness, minerality. Finish was ephemeral as well to clear the palate without a strong, lingering echo. The Japanese term Jōhin comes to mind connoting well mannered, high class.
5) Coffee scented Blancmange which is a light pudding. Simple, refreshing dessert to end this well modulated, complex meal.
The Omotènashi/Japanese style hospitality and sensibilities is very evident. Food here is right on target as to what Asakura aims to accomplish. Finely honed cuisine rooted in tradition yet napped by more modern concepts informed by diverse, international influences.
Definitely a 5 star experience catering to discerning palates that appreciate nuanced, well thought out cuisine often clothed in sybaritic ingredients. Perhaps an Étoile is on the way.
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