Ron W.
Yelp
Chef Guy Savoy may have burned out on Vegas (and who hasn't?) so he took over the helm at this place. It is a sleek, modern, understatedly elegant room without pretense. All gorgeous black slate, black walls and accoutrements. There are splashes of vibrant crazed art hanging in the dining room so you don't feel like you're eating in the barrel of a French 75. There is a cozy bar if you don't want to be seen and a spacious dining room if you do, along with an intimate small room for that special night with a few special people other than your poker buddies. Thankfully there is no rock loop blaring Johnny Halliday's Greatest or the latest by Chupee.
The focused menu features grilled items and hits all the right notes; Beef, Veal, Fish, and Chicken and there are all the ala carte sides you like. Pommes Dauphinois (Gratin), and Artichokes Gratin as well. No Mac 'n Cheese need apply.
Enjoy the Amuse Bouche of Vegetable Salmon Shooters next to a Pistachio Cracker with a Salami Skewer to go with your first Kir Royale. It brought out the Louis Quatorze in me.
And the Angels are in details. Fresh ground Salt and White Pepper on the table which are far enough apart that require a Segway to go visiting. Heated plates, calm waiters.
There is a curated wine list and unless you know what you're doing, have a working knowledge of French Wine, or only order by cost, then let the helpful Staff help you. I did and ended up with a perfect Cote du Rhone 2015 Croze Hermitage which pair nicely with the Pate, Salade Lardon, and stood up confidently to the Rack of Lamb.
And speaking of the Staff, my Server was attentive, professional, knew how to work a table and he enhanced the evening to the point where I left an extra cash tip and a lamb chop for the Waiter's puppy. Parting with money was easy, but giving up that Lamb Chop, well, that's another matter. There was no upselling, no pushing specials (that didn't move the week before), no hurry and no worry here.
The Vibe: Upscalers, kindred carnivores.
The Food: Straight at you with no foo foo flash. The chef hasn't gone swimming in the kitchen. You will get things you can recognize and enjoy.
A basket of fresh bread showed up which required removing the crumb from the crust to maximize the cultured butter with Sel Gris.
The Terrine du Champagne was a spiritual experience. All pork bits and pieces with Aspic and a Gelatin border. Let's call it Head Cheese, because that's what it was, done well and served with a Fig Compote which got my vote. This dish fulfilled my pigish wish.
The Oeuf Parfait (eggs) with Mushrooms of the Moment was as composed as Queen Elizabeth. It was a riff on the traditional Salade Lardon. A perfect runny Egg nestled on Escarole with thin Bacon strips and a light Vinaigrette. It paid stage door Johnny homage to a classic.
The Frenched Bone-In Rack of Lamb was meaty, lamby and was served with Lamb Jus. To start with it was photogenic as presented and satisfying to the photographer once it was disassembled table side. The meat was grilled to medium rare and was down pillow tender. If you're in the mood to share, you will have chosen wisely. If you're selfish, all the better as this dish was terrific.
The Pomme Dauphnoise (mandolined Potatoes with Cream, taking a tour under the Slamander with Gruyere was almost as good as my version).
The Gratin Artichaud was also lovely, in case you didn't have enough cream with the Pomme D. The Chef used bottoms instead of hearts, and I prefer a good firm bottom to a soft heart any day.
Finally, there was a sophisticated Cheese plate with all the fixin's. The Cheeses change quickly and the kitchen is generous with each selection to point to with your fork. Americans are used to Cheese as a appetizer to mollify guests at a party and keep them out of the way. Here, Cheese is a separate course and a precursor to dessert, but for this evening the Cheese finished me off. Ah, Death by Cheese is so welcome.
A soft Bleu, a Triple Cream, a nutty wannbe Gruyere, and a Goat wrapped in Straw with a pick-up-styx distribution of Granny Smith batons, and grilled Bread. Lord, take me now.
Atelier Maitre Albert, I am so there next visit.