J Holmes
Google
An exciting new addition to the Denver scene. While I'm a bit bummed Osaka Ramen's green chile ramen is gone forever, I'm quite happy with what took it's place. Service was great, exactly what I would expect from a place of its caliber. The staff was friendly and chatty without feeling excessive at the chef's counter. The table service seemed more intimate though I only took the occasional glance in that direction.
We started with the burrata, which came with a spicy oil and a sesame and fennel covered cracker. The cheese had a smooth texture with just enough give to let the crackers separate it without needing a utensil. Solid opener.
Next came the compressed melons and heirloom tomatoes with a vegetarian take on fish sauce, topped with jalapenos. Hands down my favorite bites of the meal. The melon (santaclaus melon tonight, though apparently it changes) had a nice sweetness and satisfying crunch, and the jalapeno had a lot more spice than I expected. There was a citrusy punch from the sauce, with a faint note of pineapple. Very satisfying in every way.
We added an order of bread, which came with a charred leek butter pressed into a bear shape. Don't let the color distract you, it's a brilliant dish. The four fluffy yeast rolls with a light sheen of oil or butter were great alone, but oh so savory and delicious paired with the grey smokey leek butter. I will order this again on all subsequent visits.
Our mains were well executed and quite filling. We sat at the chef's counter, so we watched countless half chickens get egged and floured before being dropped into the fryer. The meat itself was decent, but the standout was the sauce and slaw. The unusual mix of flavors left me excited and drooling for the next bite, though that might have been the szechuan in the sauce.
The chef's take on a steak frites was competently done, sliced app style, and served with potato straws and a "broken A1 sauce." After every other dish pummeled me with flavors, it was a bit of a surprise in it's relative simplicity. I guess there aren't too many things you can do with steak and potatoes to make it stand out. If they're still on the same menu on my next visit, I'll go with the fish.
Our last course was a round of drinks and the bear popsicle. The house made seasonal cello was melon (honeydew?). It was sweet and smooth, though a bit much for any course but dessert if you're not into limoncello variants. The Arnold palmer-esque drink my partner ordered was fantastic, capturing the look and feel of an Arnold Palmer with none of the ingredients.
That brings me to the bizarrely delicious frozen custard bear on a stick. The sweet and sour filling was topped with a spicy oil with black garlic and peanuts. Absolutely none of those flavors seemed like they should have gone together, but I couldn't stop eating it. It was quite an experience. I feel like I need to have it another two or three times just to figure out if it was the taste or the feeling of bafflement the taste evoked that made it so enjoyable.
The last bear themed food was a small jellied berry in the form of a gummy bear, dropped along with the check and two BearLeek stickers. I asked the server, and I managed to get all the bear shaped foods currently on the menu. I don't think the menu *needs* any more bear themed options, but if there are any more in the future, I'll order them. They added a nice layer of whimsy to the meal that fit quite well.
All in all, I'm very happy I got to visit, and excited to see how the menu changes moving forward.