Bear Leek - Review - Rino - Denver - The Infatuation

"Forget looking for a sign. A gummy bear guarding the glass door is the only clue you’re in the right place. And by “right place” we mean an underground, Tron-esque neon and black space that serves multiple foods shaped like gummy bears. (Seriously, there are gummy bear-shaped butters and passion fruit cream pops, plus housemade candies that come with the check. It’s nice to have a thing, we guess?) Maybe surprisingly, the candy-coated cyberpunk vibe works, especially with the smoky/tart mezcal El Oso cocktail in hand. Bear Leek describes its menu as “globally inspired,” and the result feels a bit like being in a group chat where everyone is texting you dinner recommendations at the same time and you say yes to all of them. From koji-brined, green Sichuan-kissed fried chicken to tuna crudo over whipped labneh to the fanciest pierogi you’ll ever eat, the mashup menu creates a sort of UN dinner party that, like all those bears, somehow works." - Allyson Reedy