Julian H.
Yelp
If beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I've only got eyes for Beholder
Be forewarned - this a shameless plug for Mr. Brooks' "other restaurant" - an absolute tour de force that deserves to be celebrated and elevated.
With a footprint similar to its sibling restaurant (Milktooth), Beholder is the new face of an old auto service station. Once inside, you are greeted by a friendly host, well-placed ambient lighting, avant garde décor, and a progressive dinner-time playlist.
Seating options are tailored to the type of experience you prefer: a seat at the chef's table to see Brooks in action, a bar spot to imbibe a Gator Boots (one of Beholder's signature cocktails), the dining room for a more secluded evening (and a glance into the wine cellar), or the private room (IYKYK).
No matter what, the food and drink will dazzle. The curation of Beholder's menu rewards exploration, but doesn't overstay its welcome.
Some all-time favorites include caviar with tater tots and sour cream sauce, tempura fried lion's mane mushrooms, kimchi honey glazed halibut, Hamachi with golden strawberries, twice-cooked octopus, spinach salad with tempura plantains, mushrooms with polenta, and Okinawa sweet potato Pomme Anna with caramelized plum and yuzu créme fresh.
Also, for those who simply cannot enjoy fantastic food without gorgeous grapes, the wine list is wondrous and extensive (ask for the reserve list for a special occasion). Recently enjoyed a stunning 2019 Blagny La Piece Sous Le Bois (1er Cru)
For more cautious epicureans looking to dabble, Wednesday nights are the perfect time to savor the special, which scores you a sandwich/burger (past favorites included Mongolian BBQ cheese steak or the bison burger with habanero tequila cheese, bib lettuce, mayo, and pickled red onion) a beer, and a shot.
Sold yet? If so, Beholder hides in plain sight on East 10th Street, across from the historic Woodruff Place neighborhood.
Cheers