J Holmes
Google
Been trying to go here for a few years. Finally made a reservation. Unfortunately, I left confused and a bit disappointed.
The arancini was a bit untraditional, served with honey. The sweet and savory worked well. Not bad, though a bit small for the price point.
The cauliflower head with pine nut puree and a bacon jam was the highlight of the meal. No complaints about this dish; it was well executed and a surprising mix of flavors. Savory and sweet seemed to be a theme.
From here, the experience went downhill. The "medium-rare" NY Strip came out brown nearly the whole way through, past medium-well and heading into well done territory. The cubed deep fried potatoes were novel, but unfortunately, rather unseasoned. They relyied on, you guessed it, the sweet bacon jam, along with a small splash of brown gravy with peppercorns. The gravy was quite good, and the scant few peppercorns were great, but there weren't enough. The dish wasn't well balanced, and the issue was exacerbated by poor timing from the kitchen.
The DOP Margherita pizza came out several minutes after my strip, very awkward timing for a place with menu prices where they are. While the ingredients were premium, the buffalo mozz was scantily applied, insufficient even for a neoplitan style pizza. The cheese was hard to the touch rather than stringy, probably undercooked. The red sauce was competently made, but applied too thickly, leaving the middle half of the pizza soggy. The basil was cooked with the pie and charred to a crisp rather than applied after cooking, definitely not my preference.
We left with half the pizza in a box and stopped by another neoplitan pizza spot on the way home. I'm not sure if Benzina's pending closure caused my experience, or the experience is causing the closure, but either way, I don't think I'll ever return.