Barry G.
Yelp
I've been to Amsterdam several times over the years and never thought of it as a culinary destination. I'll acknowledge the great museums, solid shopping, plenty of decent beer and genever, and way too much licentious behaviour but not great food or dining experiences. Three hours at Bridges and 20+ years of programming over what constitutes authentic Amsterdam were wiped out.
Bridges is housed in the Sofitel Grand Amsterdam, a 500 year old building which has served as convent, city hall and guest house. While you might blanch at the cost of a night at this Sofitel feel good about splurging on a dinner here. Make reservations, the place is popular, and if you have a small party and don't mind group dining experiences ask to sit at one of the shared, square tables. These large squares are surrounded by rich red sofas and can seat several parties in a living room-like atmosphere (that is, if your living room looks like Florence Knoll's). I, alone and without a reservation, had to sit at one of the raised tables in the bar which, due to poor chair height, was not very comfortable - don't cry for me though.
Service started out a bit slow and less than attentive though professional and knowledgeable. Once it was clear that I wasn't in for a quick cocktail on my way to the near-by red light district the staff warmed up to me. European oysters are a treat for this Seattlite so I ordered several varieties including some from Burgundy.
me: "Burgundy?"
waiter: "Yes, Burgundy."
me:"Burgundy in central France, where they grow snails and make mustard?"
waiter:"Yes, Burgundy."
Delicious, sweet with a mild brine. The oyster service is beautiful too: each oyster variety is paired with a sprig of fresh herb, a different herb for each type. In all these years eating oysters I'd never seen that sort of presentation and it was both lovely to look at and a very effective compliment to the oysters.
If it wasn't clear from the restaurant's sub title "Fins and Vins", Bridges is almost all seafood with a focus on wine pairings (if there were any question as to why I came here I suppose that answers it). And the broad selection of fish and creative preparations on the menu is astounding. After much debate and consultation I settled on the Monkfish with garbanzo beans and curry, a stewy Moroccan inspired dish. The sommellier recommended a Fermint based Tokjai, a straight forward herbaceous white, not a late harvest. It may well have been the best glass (ehem two glasses) of white wine I have ever had. And I didn't take down the name.
I'll continue to cry over that later but it's time to tell you about dessert. And not just dessert - special house cocktails paired with dessert. A load of the usual dessert items were listed on the menu (all looked great to be fair) but one cannot see "Taste of the 17th Century - Cardamom" on the dessert menu and pass it up. The pastry chef prepares a special cardamom based dessert nightly (apparently the Dutch were big cardamom importers to Europe in the 17th century). Tonight's was a mix of ice creams, tuiles, ices, jellies and meringues all flavored with cardamom. To go with this Bridges has its own cardamom liqueur based cocktails. Bridges has the cocktail recipes on their Web site but don't torture yourself by going to look at them; the cardamom liqueur is made by the big dutch distillery Bols especially for Bridges and you can't get it anywhere else (though Bols is open to public so you might take a tour and try). My choice: The Tax Haven, very near to a Spanish Sangria made with the cardamom liqueur, genever, mint, litchy fruit and Spanish Gewurztraminer.
me: "Gewurztraminer from Spain?"
waiter: "Yes, Spain."
me:"Spain, the southern country, where they grow tempranillo and make manchego?"
waiter:"Yes, Spain."
Seriously one of the best meals I have ever had. Service started out a bit slow and inattentive but professional and knowledgeable. It ended up familiar and warm. On my next trip to Amsterdam I'd sooner skip a trip to the Van Gogh museum than miss a night at Bridges.